Amsterdam - February 2014: Dutch Genever

Dutch Genevers

We attended an 'Original Jenever & Gin Tasting' at the De Blauwe Parade in Amsterdam. We were keen to taste Jenever. How similar was it to modern English 'Gin'?

We tasted five different Jenevers, and some of them were very individual flavours, in particular, a nautical Jenever (Taainagel Scheepsgenever), complete with ropes and anchors on the label, that had a most distinct almost salty flavour.

The barman, who did the Jenever tasting, also told us about the local bar tradition, that the barman should fill the glass completely to the brim (see below). They were proud of their skill and if they could not achieve this, it reflected badly on them. We were happy with these more than generous measures.

Many of the Jenevers had been aged for 10 years, 15 years or even 20 years. These were the premium Jenevers and were priced accordingly. We tasted a couple and were encouraged to recognise the more mature spirit.

Amsterdam - February 2014: Beer

Beer in Amsterdam

Our first beers in Amsterdam. Arriving early in the afternoon it was not long before we found something suitable to eat (avoiding the many fast food outlets) and some Amstel beer. This first beer was so refreshing after carrying our bags a long way across the city from the train station!

Another beer from a lesser known Amsterdam brewery which was good. The most famous beer (Heineken) we avoided if at all possible, even in its home city it was the less favoured choice.

La Trappe, trappist beer was also widely available.

It was Sunday afternoon and many were watching football on the large screen and drinking beer - the same the world over!

The less favoured beer (Heineken) in a small bar - note the well worn tables (this was not an artistic effect). This was a quick stop, full of character (and characters) but did not dwell long.

Amsterdam - February 2014: Coffee & cake

Coffee & Cake

An important part of any mid-morning (or mid-afternoon) break is Coffee & Cake. In Austria it is very much an afternoon ritual, but here in Amsterdam when food is easily available around the clock it was much more difficult to decide, so we tried both afternoon and morning.

Here the cakes were either takeaway or you could sit and eat at the narrow counter and watch the bustle of the city go by. Our feet were tired from walking so many miles and this was a good refreshment stop!

Dutch apple pie and cream - available in most places across the city and of course much copied around the world.

Mid afternoon coffee and 'Berliners' in a city centre cake/coffee shop.

Amsterdam - February 2014: Vlaam Fritehuis

Amsterdam Fast Food

At first it is very disconcerting when nearly every member of staff in an Amsterdam bar or shop speaks to you in an American accent. Have they really all lived in the USA? Then you quickly realise that this must be the 'english' that they learnt. There are many Americans in Amsterdam and whilst we were there, we saw numerous groups of young American men out on the town, heading off towards other districts within the city. There is a lot that would be familiar to many Americans and the food here in the city is fast, easy and very convenient.

Ignoring all the numerous modern fast food outlets we sought out the famous Vleminckx, offering their fries and mayonaise - a famous Flemish 'Fritehuis' since 1887, and of course we had to try the product!

Amsterdam - February 2014: Lunch

Lunch in Amsterdam

Amsterdam is very walkable, and we spend the days walking around the city, working our way across the grid of streets and canals. Exploring slowly and taking time to investigate interesting looking buildings, shops or cafes is a significant part of the fun of being somewhere new.

We had lunch at a small cafe/bar. Part of the attraction was its ambience, including many original features. It also offered some typically Dutch dishes including their well know pea and ham soup which added to the attraction.

We enjoyed our easy and unpretentious lunch with some beer, whilst outside the February sun shone brightly, illuminating all the fine details of the magnificent buildings that surrounded us. For us, this was Amsterdam at its easy and relaxed best and without the huge crowds.

Amsterdam - February 2014: Cheese

Old Amsterdam

We were keen to look at the range of cheeses available in Amsterdam itself, and to compare these to some of those available in the United Kingdom. Many shops offered advice and small samples but the labelling was clear and did not need much explanation. There were a range of grades within a specific cheese, from very young cheeses to more seriously aged and complex flavours. We learnt much more about the Old Amsterdam cheese and what makes it so full of complex flavours. Those in the cheese industry rate Old Amsterdam very highly, yet many here is the UK fail to see beyond over processed Edam as representing 'Dutch' cheese!

Whilst some of the shops sold limited ranges of cheese and were surrounded by the obvious touristy items, there was enough serious focus on the quality of cheese in most shops. It was easy to buy the quality products and it was a treat to be able to bring some of these wonderful cheeses back to the UK with us.

Amsterdam - February 2014: Herrings

Breakfast in Amsterdam

I had spotted this traditional Herring stall, previously, during our exploration of the city of Amsterdam. We were spending time researching a range of food, drink and other products across the city. Unfortunately there was much American style fast food or Dutch hybrids, so we had to look hard to find the more original cuisine. 

The herring is a hugely underrated fish in the United Kingdom and we wanted to understand how in Amsterdam, the herrings were prepared and served to their customers. It was fascinating watching the staff quickly preparing a large number of herrings, ready for the day (this was still early in the morning).

I ordered plain herring with onions, which was served on a napkin for ease (with the addition of a Dutch flag!). 

The herrings were sweet and delicate.  It was easy to eat the herrings on the move - this really was convenient and easy 'street food'. 

Would some of our UK shops or seafood bars be able to serve herring prepared so simply to make the most of the natural flavours and textures of the herring, most probably not. Unfortunately, herring is not a fashionable fish (unlike the cleverly re-branded 'Cornish Sardines' ) but perhaps tastes may change and we may learn to appreciate more fully this wonderful fish, in a most natural state.