Palma - December 2014

A wonderful early December short visit to Palma, staying at the Hotel Jamie III. Palma was cold and clear, the local population dressed in hats and scarves, although it was circa 14-16C.

The streets were dressed for Christmas and winter celebrations.

We enjoyed some stunningly simple tapas dishes during our stay including; boquerones, octopus (with smoked paprika), tortilla and simple fried fish dishes, all cooked beautifully.

The main market in Palma was colourful and full of great produce, with good displays of fish, meats and vegetables/fruits. All were carefully lit and displayed, adding a vibrancy to the market. We stopped for a simple fried fish dish at stand up counter.

Austria - September 2014: Seeboeckenhotel Zum Weissen Hirschen

Seeboeckenhotel Zum Weissen Hirschen

The busy terrace outside the Seeboeckenhotel Zum Weissen Hirschen offered an atmospheric lunch setting with magnificent views across the lake.

Artic char stuffed with herbs and served simply with potatoes.

An Austrian chicken dish in fresh delicate breadcrumbs.

Austria - September 2014: Lunch in the rain

St Wolfgang - Lunch in the rain

When we arrived in St Wolfgang, it had been raining for most of the summer. On our first day it rained very heavily all day but this was not too much of a problem after all the travelling of the previous day (only arriving at the hotel late in the evening). What we did not now was that the weather was about to change to glorious (and unusually hot) sunshine. So on our first Sunday morning we ventured out into the heavy rain and quickly found shelter in a local hotel/inn..

I was very keen to taste the local food. As usual it took me only a few seconds to speed scan the menu and decide on my lunch, which would be pike/perch!

Although it was cool and raining we had been so looking forward to being able to drink Austrian wines again that we just had to order a bottle of Blaufrankish.

My wife had venison which was cooked simply and well. This was a lovely start to our holiday.

Florence - May 2014: Florence Market

Florence Market

I had to visit Florence market, even though we were staying in a hotel and could not really buy anything meaningful. I'm sure the stall holders spotted that we were yet more tourists just looking and not buying their wonderful produce.

Do not touch!

Organic Sicilian sun dried tomatoes. It would be so easy to take the whole barrowful away!

Cheese..

The incredible Caffe' el Mercato di Cubattoli Roberto

Fine Florence meat, including their famous cuts of steak.

I wish I had taken a van - it would have been worth driving across Europe for these superb products...

Wild boar salamis etc.

As always, I visit the fish stalls and spend time looking at each fish....

Florence - May 2014: An evening in Florence

An evening in the romantic city of Florence

A table with a view, from which we could watch as Florence bustled or wandered past on this warm summer evening.

The wonderful Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - such an easy pleasure to drink, although it is a 'big' wine and not to be under estimated.

This was a stunning dish - cappachio of swordfish with blood oranges and fennel - such a fresh tasing dish, incredible flavours.

Some bubbles as well...on such a romantic evening.

A range of Tuscan dishes, very distinctive.

A beautiful city and full of activity and spectacle.

We had to try the desserts.

I enjoy a 'pick up me' yet again.

We decided to finish with some Lemoncello, not our usual choice but really refreshing.

Amsterdam - February 2014: Herrings

Breakfast in Amsterdam

I had spotted this traditional Herring stall, previously, during our exploration of the city of Amsterdam. We were spending time researching a range of food, drink and other products across the city. Unfortunately there was much American style fast food or Dutch hybrids, so we had to look hard to find the more original cuisine. 

The herring is a hugely underrated fish in the United Kingdom and we wanted to understand how in Amsterdam, the herrings were prepared and served to their customers. It was fascinating watching the staff quickly preparing a large number of herrings, ready for the day (this was still early in the morning).

I ordered plain herring with onions, which was served on a napkin for ease (with the addition of a Dutch flag!). 

The herrings were sweet and delicate.  It was easy to eat the herrings on the move - this really was convenient and easy 'street food'. 

Would some of our UK shops or seafood bars be able to serve herring prepared so simply to make the most of the natural flavours and textures of the herring, most probably not. Unfortunately, herring is not a fashionable fish (unlike the cleverly re-branded 'Cornish Sardines' ) but perhaps tastes may change and we may learn to appreciate more fully this wonderful fish, in a most natural state.

Smoked Gurnard

Smoked Gurnard - a new experience

Nearly forty years ago, fishing with my father and with my grandfather, off Salcombe, we would catch gurnards (when fishing for other more prized species!) and bring home to cook. Very few people bothered to eat gurnards and I remember them as a fish commonly used in the crab pots on the small boats fishing out of Hope Cove, along with conger eels that were often left hanging in the sun before being used in the pots. The conger eels, were a strange and smelly spectacle for the holidaymakers who walked down the slipway at Outer Hope.

Yesterday we were given some locally caught gurnard that had been smoked here in Brixham. We were given three fish, which had been smoked whole (minus head, tail and gutted).

Keen to try this very familiar fish, I stripped off the skin and removed the flesh from the rather unusual bone structure. This was largely successful, although later my portion did have a couple of bones, even though I had been ruthless in trimming the fish!

I enjoyed the fish, which was only very, very lightly smoked (if at all), most of the smoke probably having been absorbed by the thick skin. My beloved was less sure, having been expecting a smokey fish rather than the taste of gurnard cooked in a different way. I enjoyed the moist flesh and very delicate flavour and I'm sure an imaginative chef could do great things with this fish.

Grey Gurnard (Eutrigla gurnardus) is a very strange fish, with front feelers that 'walk' along the bottom looking for food. I think it also omits sounds and grunts underwater (never tested this) and is territorial and referred to as a 'sea robin'.

The price of whole gurnard at the fish merchant (retail) in Brixham this morning was £6.80 per kg.